I can certainly clean up the frayed ends with some rigger's tape, if that's the only issue.

And his enthusiasm was noted by many of us.īut I'm wondering if the 'hammer smash' method of crimping provides the necessary and expected strength for the crimps, or if I can look forward to having one or more unexpectedly fail, dropping the stern of the dinghy unceremoniously into my wake without warning while underway, causing unwanted excitement, and possibly great expense. I asked him whether he should be using the crimper and his response was 'My method is better.' Blocking the entire isle with this project and his expansive claw hammer stokes he proceeded to finish the project for me. While he made the first loop he picked up a hammer and got onto the floor and smashed the aluminum crimp flat, leaving the slightly frayed end of the wire without a cap ('I don't use those, just put some electrical tape around it.'). I'm concerned about the technique the Associate used and whether the resulting strength of the crimps can be relied upon. They, somewhat roughly, came out like I needed. Total cost for ~3' of 1/4' stainless wire and 2 packages of aluminum crimps were $6.50, labor was free. Sweet! So I asked a Home Depot associate for assistance in putting together the two pieces that I needed, and he made them for me on the spot. I dropped by Home Depot to find they had 1/4' uncoated stainless wire for a reasonable price (380 lb working weight for the wire and the dinghy will be slung from 4 points, so the working weight at each point will be some fraction of the 131 lbs), as well as the aluminum crimps, and a wire cutter and crimper to use. I have no experience working with braided wire. Dingy + motor = 131 lbs (I leave the 4hp motor attached while in the davits). The other two pics show where the bolts to remove the top part of the latch are found under the hood (use a 10mm wrench) and a pic of the top latch removed.So I purchased a new dinghy this week and needed stainless braided wire crimped with a loop on each end to go onto my transom u-bolts, and the other loop to go to a stainless O ring which is connected to my davit hoist. The following pics are of the strapping I used to make a 'C Clamp', the nylon coated wire which was nice to work with as it doesn't fray, the 4x4' bracket which I used to make the hood latch brackets. These were taken with my Iphone as they are quick to upload. Quickly attach chain and chain accessories. Quick Links are designed to make permanent and temporary connections. I neglected to photograph the entire process but I did try and take pics of the 'main points'. 316 Grade Stainless Steel Anchor Shackle. A 25' package of 3/4' galvanized strapping 12 feet of nylon coated 1/8' aircraft wire (had a bit left over) In the end I used the following items (please excuse me if the names are not correct): Get free shipping on qualified Best Rated, Stainless Steel, Turnbuckle Turnbuckles products or Buy Online Pick Up in Store today in the Hardware Department. There was a second trip made to Home Depot after a couple of items didn't work as planned. I wasn't too sure what exactly I would need and whether the items I bought would work.

While riding an ingrown trail my wife and I spent half our time redirecting and breaking tree limbs.Ī couple of days ago while on my weekly trek into Princess Auto and Home Depot I picked up some items and decided to make a set of limb risers myself. I was looking at ordering a set of limb risers the other day after a trip into the woods. Please register or login to enable Dark Mode.Archived - Jeep XJ Cherokee & Grand Cherokees.Gladiator Electrical, Lighting & Sound Systems.JK Electrical, Lighting & Sound Systems.VENGEANCE - The Curmudgeons Revenge JK Build.Sponsoring Manufacturers/Vendors - Check out Cyber Monday Specials!!.JK-Forum Rules & Sponsorship Information.

Stainless steel turnbuckle home depot